Doomed romantic love seems to be a recurring theme in my life lately, not so much personally (thank goodness!) but artistically. . After the exhilarating experience of Romeo & Juliet at the Met, I’m again following into the steps of another the tragic Italian romance, this time an historical one, between Paolo and Francesca. Their romance was eternalized by one of the most renowned cantos of Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy (I put the Italian original first because I love its musicality in this form):
“Quando leggemmo il disïato riso
esser basciato da cotanto amante,
questi, che mai da me non fia diviso,
la bocca mi basciò tutto tremante.
Galeotto fu ‘l libro e chi lo scrisse:
quel giorno più non vi leggemmo avante.”
This is Lord Byron translation
“When we read the long-sighed-for smile of her,
To be thus kissed by such devoted lover,
He, who from me can be divided ne’er,
Kissed my mouth, trembling in the act all over:
Accurséd was the book and he who wrote!
That day no further leaf we did uncover.”(from The Guardian)
I took a break from the hyper-active beaches of Romagna to step back in time in this medieval gem that is Gradara Castle. I have to say it is definitely one of the best preserved medieval monuments in Italy, considering how many ruins are scattered around the countryside, especially in the Central and Southern regions. However do not expect to immerse yourself just in romantic love, for centuries Gradara’s vocation has been military, as one of the strongholds of the local seignory. History buffs will certainly recognize some of the famous names who held it: Malatesta, Sforza, Borgia, Della Rovere … Today Gradara Castle still hosts a large collection of Medieval and Renaissance weapons in its halls, however the main attractions are the various rooms that with their details and artifacts immerse the visitors in the life of a medieval castle, so much so that one can almost still hear the clangor of the knights’ armors and the sighs of the hidden lovers. Its walls, corners and passages speak of war, strife and conspiracies, but the gently rolling hills of the countryside around it evoke prosperity, love and romance.
Finally, within the outer walls of the castle there is a very well preserved hamlet which offers a few more glimpses to life in XIV century Gradara. The streets are lined with typical restaurants, food stores filled with local delicacies, regional crafts and tourist stores offering everything from flower crowns to medieval weapon reproductions.
